Begin with Patwon ki Haveli, the largest and most ornate haveli in Jaisalmer, consisting of five separate mansions built between 1800 and 1860 by the Patwa merchant family who made their fortune from brocade silk and opium trade. The facades are covered in exquisitely carved sandstone jharokhas (overhanging windows), latticed screens, and multi-layered decorative borders. One of the five is partially open as a museum with original furniture and artifacts from the merchants' domestic life.

Nearby, Salim Singh ki Haveli (early 19th century) has an unusual peacock-arch top floor that extends beyond the lower floors and has a distinct silhouette visible from several lanes away. Nathmal ki Haveli (1885) was built by two brothers working simultaneously from opposite ends, reportedly making the two halves of the building slightly asymmetrical due to their independent interpretation of the design.

For the haveli circuit, a local guide adds significant value: the architectural stories, merchant dynasty histories, and design vocabulary become meaningful rather than decorative. Negotiate a 2-hour walking tour (INR 300-600) from the tourist information centre rather than from individuals who approach near the fort entrance.

Post-lunch, explore the textile and handicraft lanes in the lower city. Jaisalmer is known for mirror-work embroidery (shisha work), camel leather bags and belts, bandhani (tie-dye) fabric in desert colour palettes, and silver jewelry with geometric desert patterns. Fixed-price shops on Fort Road have authenticated products; pavement stalls near the fort gate are more negotiable but quality varies.

Evening at a rooftop cafe in the fort lanes before sunset gives one of the best views in Jaisalmer: the fort walls glowing from warm sandstone below, the old city spread out, and the desert horizon visible in all directions. This is the golden-hour window for photography where the city earns its name of Sonar Quila (Golden Fort).